All About Moisturisers
All About Moisturisers
Purpose
Moisturisers are a key part of any skincare routine. They contain a variety of different ingredients, all of which work in slightly different ways to boost hydration and prevent dryness. Using the right kind of moisturiser helps maintain skin health and balance, as it enhances the functioning of the skin and acts as a protective barrier to outside stressors.
Main Layers of the Skin
— Epidermis, Dermis and Hypodermis
Epidermis
About
The top layer of the skin.
Contains
Immune cells (Langerhans cells), keratinocytes (produce the protein keratin and are the major building blocks (cells) of the epidermis) and melanocytes (special cells that produce the pigment melanin, that gives skin its color).
Purpose
Act as a protective (physical and biological) barrier to the external environment, make new skin cells, activate the immune response, give skin its color, prevent loss of water, keep skin pliable and elastic, prevent the formation of fissures and cracks and maintain internal homeostasis.
Dermis
About
The middle layer.
Contains
Connective tissue (fibroblast its main function is to synthesize collagen, elastin and the viscous gel within the dermis), elastic fibers, hair follicles, blood vessels, nerve endings, lymphatics, oil glands, sweat glands and immune cells (mast cells).
Purpose
Sustains and supports the epidermis, provides nourishment to the epidermis, keeps skin flexible and elastic (with elastin), and strong, resilient and tough (with collagen), moderates immune and inflammatory response, scavenges foreign material, antigenic substances and bacteria, grows hair, makes oil, produces sweat, regulates body temperature (thermoregulation), protects the body by cushioning the deeper structures from mechanical injury, supports wound healing and detects pain, itch, temperature, pressure and vibration.
Hypodermis (Subcutaneous Layer)
About
The bottom layer of the skin.
Contains
Fat cells, connective tissue, blood vessels and nerves.
Purpose
Provides main structural support for the skin, protects muscles and bones, aids in shock absorption and insulates the body from cold.
Main Benefits of Moisturiser
— Improves skin texture (soft, smooth skin)
— Maintains skin’s integrity and appearance
— Enhances the functioning of the skin
— Fortifies the surface of the skin
— Boosts hydration and prevents flaking and dullness
— Helps retain moisture and elasticity in the skin
— Improves skin health and prevents environmental damage to the skin
— Helps reduce wrinkles, age spots and other fine lines
Main Mechanisms of Action
— Improves skin barrier repair system
— Acts as a protective barrier to outside stressors
— Restores the intercellular lipid bilayers ability to absorb, retain, and redistribute water
— Increases stratum corneum water content (hydration)
— Increases occlusion to reduce trans-epidermal water loss
— Fills spaces between partially desquamated skin flakes
Use
Twice a day. Day and Night.
Efficacy of Moisturisers
The efficacy of moisturisers depends largely on proper selection and compliance to continuously use it.
Application
Gently pat moisturiser onto clean and slightly damp skin. Using circular strokes, distribute the product evenly onto the full face and down to the neck and chest area using upward strokes.
Main Components of Moisturisers
– Humectants, Emollients and Occlusives
Humectants
About
Humectants are ‘hygroscopic’ which means they help the epidermis attract and absorb water from the dermis and/or from humid environmental conditions.
Skin Type
In general, humectants can benefit all skin types, however, excessive use may exacerbate dry skin conditions if over-applied onto dry skin or during non-humid weather. It is important to always add humectants to damp skin.
Main Benefits
Helps retain moisture, strengthens the skin barrier, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, treats dry skin, preserves overall properties of products, seals cracks in skin, exfoliates, removes dead skin cells and soothes, calms and plumps skin.
Best Humectants
Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe vera, honey, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) (lactic acid, glycolic acid and sodium pyrrolidine carboxylic acid (Sodium PCA)), panthenol, salicylic acid and urea.
Emollients
About
An emollient is a supple, wax-like, lubricating and thickening agent that softens, smoothens and conditions the skin by filling in the gaps between skin cells with droplets of oil. Emollients are mainly oils and lipids, particularly lipids that are naturally present in the stratum corneum — this can help replenish depleted lipids.
Skin Type
Emollients are good for most skin types, the one exception being those with naturally very oily skin. In this case, emollients, particularly heavy, oil-rich products, can potentially be too heavy and lead to clogged pores and breakouts.
Main Benefits
Strengthens the skin barrier, prevents water loss, enhances skin hydration, softens and smoothens the skin, improves skin conditions (eczema, psoriasis, and contact dermatitis) and keeps skin healthy and flexible.
Best Emollients
Sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil, rosehip seed oil, shea butter and cocoa butter.
Occlusives
About
Occlusive substances create a physical barrier over the skin in order to reduce and prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and keep moisture locked in. They don't increase the skin's moisture levels but can help prevent water reserves from being drained by external stressors. They are most effective when applied to wet skin.
Skin Type
Best used to treat dry, dehydrated and tight feeling skin. They often have a thick, greasy, heavy consistency which makes them less cosmetically appealing and potentially comedogenic (clog pores), which can be problematic for people with oily or combination skin. However, it shouldn’t be a problem for people with sensitive and normal skin types.
Main Benefits
Maintain skin water content by creating a hydrophobic barrier over the skin and blocking trans-epidermal water loss.
Best Occlusives
Lanolin, beeswax, carnuba wax, plant oils (olive oil, avocado oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, soybean oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, safflower oil, tamanu oil, castor oil), plant butters (shea butter and cocoa butter), lecithin.
Labels to Look For
— Fragrance-Free/ Unscented. No fragrances were added.
— Non-Comedogenic. Non-pore clogging ingredients were added.
— Hypoallergenic. Non-allergy-producing ingredients were added.
— Natural. Ingredients come from botanical sources.
— Organic. Ingredients are grown without the use of chemicals, pesticides, or artificial fertilizers. The product contains only organically-produced ingredients (not counting water and salt).
— Vegan. The product has not been formulated with any animal products or byproducts.
— Cruelty-free. The product itself has not been tested on animals, and any raw materials used in making it weren't tested on animals, either.
— Free from parabens, PEGS, phthalates, sulfates, silicones, mineral oil, siloxanes, synthetic fragrances, aluminum, BHA, BHT, EDTA, glycols, formaldehyde, synthetic colors, alcohols, phenoxyethanol, oxybenzone, octinoxate, petrolatum, homosalate and ethanolamine compounds (MEA, DEA, TEA and others).
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